Matsu Islands | A Guide to Taiwan’s Lienchiang County

The Matsu Islands, located on the Chinese coastline but considered part of Taiwan, have a complex historical background. While historically separate from Taiwan, they came under its control after Chiang Kai-shek’s Republic of China lost the civil war to Mao Zedong’s Communist Party. Today, Matsu and Kinmen are integral parts of the Republic of China. This article explores the islands’ history, unique characteristics, and their distinct position in the region.

Matsu Islands and Taiwan? Where Did It Come From?

The Matsu Islands, also known as Mazu, along with Kinmen, form a separate archipelago belonging to Taiwan but located off the Chinese coastline. Historically, Matsu had no direct connection with Taiwan, except for a period when both islands were part of China’s Fujian province (albeit briefly in the case of Taiwan). The present inclusion of Matsu and Kinmen within Taiwan is a consequence of Chiang Kai-shek’s loss in the civil war against Mao Zedong in 1949. These two islands are the only territories from mainland China that the Republic of China managed to retain. Consequently, I prefer to view Matsu and Kinmen as part of the Republic of China rather than Taiwan. The Republic of China is a nation that survived the civil war defeat and established its presence in Taiwan and the surrounding islands.

History and Characteristics of the Islands

The Matsu Islands have a rich historical background, having been part of the Fujian province and attracting inhabitants primarily from that region. These islands derive their name from the Chinese goddess Matsu or Mazu, whom we will explore further below. The old houses in Matsu were predominantly constructed using granite or lime, with roofs adorned with stone in a “chopped” pattern, creating a picturesque effect. Unlike many places in China and Taiwan that have succumbed to modernization with concrete structures and highways, Matsu has preserved its distinct fishing village atmosphere. However, there is a paradoxical coexistence on the islands: while they exude tranquility and historical charm, they also serve as crucial military outposts for the Republic of China. On Dongyin, one of the smaller islands, the number of recruits exceeds that of residents. Boys and girls in green uniforms can be spotted in various ports, beaches, and training parks, enduring rigorous exercises in sweltering heat while donning heavy military gear. Unfortunately, due to understandable reasons, photography of these military personnel is prohibited.

Alongside the stunning views and ancient architecture, remnants of Kuomintang propaganda, which have been removed from Taiwan proper, can still be found on the islands. One such example is the statue of Chiang Kai-shek, gazing towards the Chinese coastline, as depicted in the first picture. Consequently, these beautiful islands are often perceived as “pro-Chinese” in Taiwan due to their geographical and cultural proximity to China. However, it is important to note that such a characterization is unfair. The reservations expressed by the local population towards Taiwanese independence politicians stem from the notion that some individuals advocate for the separation of Matsu and Kinmen from Taiwan, relinquishing them to China to sever all ties with the country definitively. Additionally, Lienchiang County, comprising the islands, shares its name with an existing county in China’s Fujian Province. Therefore, Matsu serves as a “connector” between Taiwan and China but does not imply an identification with the Communist Party of China.

Matsu retains a distinct essence of the Republic of China, distinct from the individualism found in Taiwan proper. The islands still bear the lingering Cold War atmosphere, an aspect that the rest of Taiwan has managed to shed, which is now further intensified by the escalating conflict with China. Matsu’s charm lies in its blend of old architecture, reminders of past war preparations, the serene lifestyle of fishing communities, echoes of propaganda from the bygone dictatorship, and the captivating beauty of its natural surroundings. There truly is no other place like it in the world.

One of the most renowned natural phenomena in Matsu is the occurrence of “blue tears,” observable during spring and summer, particularly from April to July. This mesmerizing spectacle is caused by bioluminescent algae known as Noctiluca scintillans. With a stroke of luck, one can witness these captivating blue tears along the coasts of the islands.

Furthermore, Matsu offers a delightful culinary experience, boasting several characteristic dishes. Noteworthy examples include soup with rice wine, fried rice with red wine sauce, and sweet potato dumplings filled with nuts and sesame.

How to Get to Matsu?

Reaching the Matsu Islands, which are geographically distant from Taiwan, the country to which they belong, and physically separated from their closest neighbor, China, creates a sense of venturing to the edge of the world. Nevertheless, politics significantly influences our perception of geography. There are two primary ways to access these “remote” islands: by ferry or by airplane.

Ferry

Personally, I recommend taking the night ferry departing from the city of Keelung, located north of Taipei. This overnight journey allows you to spend the night onboard and arrive at Nangan on Matsu early in the morning. Despite somewhat less comfortable sleeping conditions, the experience is truly captivating. It evokes memories of traveling on a sleeper car in a Ukrainian Soviet train. Alternatively, for those who prefer a shorter cruise, there is an option available that lasts approximately three hours.

Airplane

Choosing to travel by airplane offers a more convenient, albeit slightly more expensive, means of transportation. Flights from Taipei Songshan Airport to Nangang Airport in Matsu are available, with typically two flights per day. Opting for air travel can be a saving grace if ferry reservations are unavailable. Moreover, the flight duration is less than an hour.

What to See?

The Matsu Islands comprise numerous islands, each offering a unique experience. I’m not exaggerating when I say that if you showed me pictures of each island I visited, I would likely be able to distinguish them. The diversity extends to the natural landscapes as well: the small island of Dongyin resembles the Welsh coast, while Beigan bears a resemblance to Porto in Portugal. Moreover, on the island of Daqiu, you’ll find an exclusive population of Taiwanese endemic sika deer. During my visit, I had the opportunity to explore four out of the thirty-six (!) islands.

---

Nangan

When visiting Matsu, a visit to Nangan is almost inevitable. It is the largest island, housing the main port and the largest airport. Nangan serves as a convenient hub for exploring the other islands, and tickets for trips to other islets can be purchased at the port.

Please note: When planning visits to smaller islands like Dongyin, be mindful of the ferry schedules. Many islands have only one or two daily ferries for arrival and departure.

While in Nangan, renting a scooter is highly recommended. The locals generally overlook the need for a driving license, but if you feel uncertain, electric scooters are also available. Your hotel or hostel can provide assistance in finding one.

In Nangan, be sure to explore the following:

Jinsha Village (津沙聚落)

Considered the most beautiful settlement on the island, Jinsha Village offers a delightful stay. It boasts traditional architecture and several small restaurants where you can sample local dishes. Despite its size, Matsu is renowned for its culinary diversity.

Matsu goddess statue (媽祖巨神像)

This monumental statue represents the patroness of the islands and is an iconic symbol of Nangan. Matsu, a sea goddess primarily worshiped in the Fujian province, has greatly influenced the culture of the Matsu Islands and Taiwanese culture as a whole. “Matsu” translates to “maternal ancestor” or “matriarch.”

Legend surrounds the figure of Matsu, who is believed to be based on a legendary shamaness called Lin Mo or Lin Moniang. According to tradition, she lived in the latter half of the 10th century and was known for her extraordinary talents. Legend has it that she mastered Confucius’ wisdom by the age of eight and later excelled in swimming. It is said that a Buddhist monk visited her, teaching her the art of spiritual travel and future prediction.

As a shamaness, Matsu was known for healing the sick, dispelling evil spells, and even controlling the weather to bring rain. She became the guardian of the coast, guiding fishing boats to safety regardless of the weather conditions. Legend also recounts her role in saving her family from a typhoon when she was sixteen, using her magical abilities. My favorite version of the story is one where Lin Mo aided her family in her dreams, guiding them to safety.

Niujiao Village (牛角聚落)

Situated in the northeastern part of the island, Niujiao is a hidden gem. It may not attract many tourists, but it offers one of the most stunning views of Nangan. Alongside makeshift chicken coops, a few old houses, and countless cats, stone steps lead to a vantage point overlooking the coast. The beachside shrine in this area is also an exceptionally picturesque spot in Matsu.

Beihai Tunnel (北海坑道)

This iconic military tunnel, spanning 700 meters, is a must-visit on the island. Constructed in the 1970s, it offers boat rides that provide an excellent opportunity to witness the mesmerizing phenomenon of blue tears—the bioluminescent algae I mentioned earlier. During my visit, I observed the glowing algae by gently stirring the water with a spatula.

Baba Tunnel (八八坑道)

This tunnel, stretching over 200 meters, serves as a storage facility for maturing rice wine. Walking through rows of barrels, you’ll be enveloped by the distinctive aroma that fills the air.

---

Beigan

Beigan is a picturesque island located north of Nangan, known for its beautiful traditional buildings and several sandy beaches.

Note: There is no need to rent a scooter from Nangan as it would be more affordable to rent one at the Beigan port. However, electric scooter rentals may not be available, so if you don’t have a proper license, it’s best to assess the situation and decide accordingly.

While exploring the area, you will come across numerous Chiang Kai-shek monuments and remnants of Kuomintang propaganda.

Qianbi Village (芹壁聚落)

Regarded as the most stunning fishing village in Matsu, Qianbi is characterized by its distinctive stone buildings and charming cafes. When people talk about the attractions of Matsu, Qianbi often takes center stage as a symbol of tourism on the islands, growing in popularity each year.

Speaking of propaganda, Matsu is saturated with it, and Qianbi is no exception. However, the way it is incorporated into the village with historical and cultural reverence is truly remarkable. In fact, if you don’t understand Chinese, you might not even realize it. Stone inscriptions, such as “Reclaim China” (lit. “Mainland” or China proper), are seamlessly integrated into the walls of houses.

One of the renowned restaurants in this village is called 鏡沃小吃 (I suggest searching for the name on Google Maps). It is famous for its rice wine noodles. Make sure to arrive at the restaurant early during lunchtime, preferably before 12, to secure a place in line. Note that this restaurant specializes only in rice wine noodles and does not offer other dishes.

Luobang Nature Walk (螺蚌山自然步道)

This enchanting walking area situated at the far end of the island offers breathtaking views of the coast. Along the way from Qianbi to Luobang, you will encounter fascinating remnants of old propaganda, such as the seated statue of Chiang Kai-shek. Beigan is replete with historical symbols associated with the Kuomintang dictatorship.

---

Daqiu

Daqiu is a charming, tiny island known for its deer population. You won’t find any human inhabitants there, but it’s home to the Formosan sika deer, a subspecies of small deer endemic to Taiwan. After the last human residents moved out in the 1990s, these deer were introduced to the island. To reach Daqiu, you can take a boat from Beigan as it is located just above it. At the port, you have the opportunity to purchase leaves to feed the deer, which I highly recommend. It’s the only way to capture their interest. These animals are generally not dangerous, except during the breeding season in autumn when males grow horns and may exhibit aggressive behavior. It is legal to feed and interact with the deer on the island.

---

Dongyin

Dongyin is an extraordinary island and the northernmost part of the Republic of China. Due to its uniqueness, it’s important to plan ahead for accommodation and ferry schedules. It’s advisable to book your accommodation early and be mindful of the ferry departure times. During my visit in July 2022, there was only one ferry from Dongyin to Nangan, departing at eight in the morning.

Despite these challenges, Dongyin is truly a worthwhile destination. While it primarily serves as a military outpost with more recruits than residents, the island also boasts a charming fishing village with an enchanting old street where you can sample local specialties. Don’t miss the opportunity to try wontons in rice wine sauce.

An intriguing attraction on Dongyin is the Andong Tunnel. Constructed in the 1970s by the Taiwanese military, it was opened to the public in 2004. The tunnel spans approximately 300 meters and serves as an extended shelter, featuring separate rooms such as bedrooms and a bathroom. To explore this unique site, be prepared to descend over 400 stairs.

---

The Matsu Islands offer a captivating blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Retaining their fishing village atmosphere and traditional architecture, the islands also serve as crucial military outposts. Despite their proximity to China, Matsu’s residents maintain their distinct identity separate from the Communist Party. Visitors can experience remarkable natural phenomena like the mesmerizing blue tears caused by bioluminescent algae. Additionally, the islands’ cuisine, featuring dishes like rice wine soup and sweet potato dumplings, adds to their allure. Exploring different islands such as Nangan, Beigan, Daqiu, and Dongyin provides a unique and enriching experience. The Matsu Islands are truly a remarkable destination, showcasing a harmonious blend of history, natural wonders, and the enduring spirit of the Republic of China.

About the Author